2017 Ford Escape Titanium Buyer Review

Hello guys today we're going to talk about 2017 Ford Escape Titanium. Perhaps you have some idea about this car. Ford escape is one of the most best selling SUV car in 2017. It has a nice shape, more space to load the stuff, nice seat, beautiful interior design and hi-tech technology built in.

Its out with the kuga and in with the escape. Old name, new offering and refreshed hope for fords updated mid-size SUV. The Ford Escape brings much of what the kuga had to offer and there was a lot of goodness there. With equipment and technology levels up, and prices generally down, it makes for a good re-introduction to this segment.

But success in this hot category wont come easy the escape finds itself up against some heavy hitting rivals hyundai tucson, volkswagens tiguan and a brand-new mazda CX- 5 in the wings. The escape has undergone some styling changes mostly up front - but inside youll notice even more difference. With changes to dash layout, tech and refinement, ford has families both young and old in its sights.

Three updated or new engines are joined by expanded choice of power trains front versus all-wheel-drive, manual versus automatic transmissions and ford has worked on refinement including better cabin insulation. Fords new 8. 0 inch colour touch screen featuring SYNC 3 infotainment is a welcome upgrade so too is the electric park brake. But even in all its newness glory, the interior feels dated.

Five-star safety is a win for the escape, but autonomous emergency braking is only offered at mid or top spec, and then it costs $1300 as part of the technology pack there's some handy additional features like auto parking also included but we think AEB should now be standard.

The 2017 Ford escapes chassis and handling however is well sorted. Its agile beyond its size and responds well to driver input. Its mighty obedient. In this high-spec titanium were riding on low-profile 19-inch tires however, so its a tad sharp over bumps. Mid-sized SUvs are becoming almost the default choice for Aussie families. A comparison test will be the best way to find out exactly how the new fares. But for now, its a definite step forward.

Installing 4-ORD Lift on 1973-1987 Chevy Truck

Hey guys! This is my 1982 GMC 1 ton crew cab. You may have seen other videos that I've done on it. I'm kind of excited because I'm going to put on a four inch lift on here. I've got an ORD Offroad Design 4 lift that's going to go on here. The suspension on this is pretty sagged right now so it may even give me more than four inches. But I've been wanting to do it for a while and I'm kind of excited about it. I think I'm going to do two videos. One for the rear and one for the front. So I'll throw a link up here. It should be fun! So before we start taking the truck apart I'm going to measure from the center of the axle to the bottom of the fender trim and then we can measure after the lift and determine how much lift we actually got. On the rear here we've got 22 and 5/8 is the measurement.

Here we are on the front. I'll give it a quick measure. That's 22 and 1/8 on the front so we'll redo this after the lift and tell the overall lift that we got. So the lift that I bought from ORD came in two boxes from ORD and then the front springs are drop shipped from Tuff Country. Here's the first box. I haven't really gotten into it much yet. SX shops, four corners. Dana 60 U-bolt kit. It's better to get new U-bolts rather than to reuse them. This is a drop pitman arm for steering correction. That's what that looks like. Obviously three more shocks in there. Here's the second box from ORD. The bill and actually gives you some instructions for the shackle flip for the rear. Here are the shackle flip brackets. The one ton and the other trucks have different brackets so make sure you specify but they look really nice. Nice welds. Second bracket. I bought the front greasable bolts and the heavy duty shackle kit. My front shackle is really close to the frame and this gets it a little bit further away so I wanted to do that. And also I got the greasable bolts for the front of the front springs. Anyway, that's it except for the springs. I'll show you those in a little while. You can see obviously I've got the bed off the truck now. This is not necessary to install the lift but I've been needing to redo my soft fuel lines for a while and they're kind of underneath the bed in a hard to reach location. So taking the bed off helped me there and it helps with the lift and helps with the filming actually. It's not necessary though. So this is the back of the truck. This is the stock shackle mounting bracket right here. This is the shackle itself and obviously this is the spring. The way the ORD shackle flip works is you take this bracket off and you mount the new bracket. So the spring mounts at a lower position and that's where you get your lift. You can see here it's higher and if you mount it lower it raises the truck up. This is a 4.

They also make a 2.5. These are a little bit more expensive than a block they're just generally accepted to be safer and a better way of doing it. So our first step here is we need to raise the back of the truck up, put it on jack stands and then we're going to disassemble this. Take the spring off of the bracket and then we need to get the bracket off the frame and that requires removing these rivets. So real quick I do want to mention you guys need to be safe with this. Make sure you wear eye protection and gloves because we're using a lot of big hammers and grinding and stuff like that. First of all support the rear of the frame with jack stands and put a jack under the rear axle. The instructions tell you to remove the shackle and take these bolts out and that sounds easy but in reality it can be pretty difficult. These bolts here likely have been in for over 30 years so on my truck what happened is there's a steel sleeve inside the rubber bushing and that has rusted to the bolt. So you can't get the bolts out. It's pretty frustrating. I did not in the beginning order a heavy duty shackle and greasable bolt kit for the rear but since I found out I'm going to have to basically destroy this just to get it apart, I went ahead and ordered it from ORD. I just finished doing the other side and what I did there was I cut this bolt head off and then I cu the shackle hanger right here. So when you remove the nut on the back sideyou should be able to pull that off except that it's stiff with the spring. Then I went a head and removed the rivets. The four here and there's two on the underside and then the shackle hanger bracket could come off, swing down, and then I would be able to pull this bolt off that way. So it's kind of complex but just make sure you allow a lot of time for this because it's a little bit difficult. Different people like to remove these rivets in different ways. What you can do is, you can torch them out, you can plasma cut them out, you can cut a X in them and chivel them off, or you can drill them. What I actually ended up doing, for the ones that you can get to easily, like these threeand the two on the back side, I ground them down flush with a flap disc wheel in the grinder.

This forth one over here, you can't really get the grinder to so I drilled it and then I used some pry bars and chisels to pull the plate away. Chisel down and from the sides and it pulls the plate off. Again, it takes a while so make sure and leave yourself enough time. I wanted to show you guys a technique that I've been using to remove these stuck bolts. Again we've got a bolt that is inside a busing with a steel sleeve in there and the steel sleeve is rusted to the bolt. So it won't just slide out and you know you could beat on this all day and probably bend up the bracket. So what I do is grind or cut off the bolt head and then you stack on some washers and put the nut back on and just start cranking on it and it starts to pull that bolt through there. You'll have to take off the nut and add more washers eventually but it will come out. And that's a lot safer than damaging this bracket. It's been pretty critical for this project. On this side you can see that I've got the shackle and shackle hanger removed and punched out the rivets. Again there's two underneath here also. So the shackle flip kits use the existing springs so you keep your existing carrying capacity which is a bonus. If you're going to use these bushings you know you don't really have to do anything but you know they're probably pretty old. I would consider changing them if I were you. If you are going to remove them they're just notoriously difficult to get out. A lot of people will melt them out with a torch or you can drill with a small drill bit, all the way around here and it finally loosens up and then you can pound out the bushing. After you remove the center steel sleeve and the rubber portion of the bushing, there's still a real thin steel sleeve on the outside. They say that it's easiest to cut with a sawzall or a hacksaw right here. Where the spring eye wraps around there's kind of a little gap here so just cut it there and knock it out. You can see that I've got most of the suspension disassembled and almost ready to go back together. Obviously I painted the frame. There were some extra brackets on there that weren't being used.

Some exhaust hangers that aren't being used right now and four brackets for an old fifth wheel hitch. So I took all of those off and cleaned up the frame some. Put a few coats of black on there. I would encourage you to, at a very minimumpaint the frame here where the shackle flip is going to go. The chance of you taking it off in the future to paint underneath is it is pretty slim so just go ahead and paint while it's off. So I've been working on the project for a couple more days in my spare time. What's been taking so much time is that when I got deeper into the project I noticed that three or four of the leaves in my leaf spring pack were broken. So I had to source these new springs. If you need to buy new springs, make sure and shop around because there's a really wide variety of prices for the same product. There's like a number that they designate for the springs and you can type that into an internet search and find lots of different places. Just make sure you check the shipping. So once you knock out the old spring eyes, you just press the polyurethane bushings in there. Make sure you grease them up before hand because it makes it a lot easier. The same with the shock eyes. The grease makes it a lot easier. Back to the shackle flip. ORD sends these bolts with. You have to drill out the frame holes just a tiny bit bigger but the holes are already there. So from this point we just need to add the shackle itself and hook everything up. So here's the shackle installed. This is the ORD Super Shackle. Here is the stock shackle. You can see it's bent. I bent that by hand pretty easily when I was removing it and you can see my bolts are seized in there so that's why I went with these guys. Here is the other Super Shackle.

You can see it's a pretty beefy piece so nice work... One thing that I wanted to make note of is that these mounting points on the shackle hangers are offset so this one is specific to this side of the truck. The mounting point is offset from the center so you want them where the mounting point is towards the cab of the truck. When you're assembling all of this you'll have to lift the truck and adjust the height so that the bolt holes line up. Here we are above the rear axle. You can see that this is the rear soft brake line here. I've got it disconnected from the frame so there's enough slack when I'm installing the lift. What you don't want is for there to be a lot of tension on this when you're installing the lift or definitely when you're driving. It could rip this out and you could lose you're rear brakes. This is a extended braided brake line from ORD. You can see that it's about four inches longer than the stocker and this will prevent there from being to much tension on the brake line when the suspension articulates. Here are the new Tough Country SX8000 shocks on here. When you're installing a lift that's anything over just a tiny lift, you need to do new shocks because they don't have enough travel to handle the new lift. You could damage the shocks. Also make sure and take note of which way the shocks are supposed to be oriented. In this case the body of the shock is supposed to be down and if you had to destroy your lower mounting bolts, the size is 9/16 x 3 inches long.

So here's the truck with the rear lift finished. It looks kind of funny with just the rear lifted and the front still low. The lift ended up giving me more than 4 inches. I'm going to do a measurement for you in just a minute here. It was a fun project. It took quite a bit longer than I expected because my particular truck is a little bit rusty. Luckily I was able to replace a lot of those rusty parts so anyway. I think it looks good and it will look better when the front is done obviously. So here we are at the back of the truck. We're going to do a measurement to see how much lift we actually got. And that measured 28 and 3/4 so we got a little bit over 6 inches of lift which is obviously more than we expected for a 4 lift. I think that came from a couple different places. The new spring pack that I had to replace because of the broken leaves, is about a 1/4 inch taller. So that gave it a little lift. Then there's the super shackle on the back that's about a 1/4 to 1/2 longer than the stock shackle and I think the rest of it probably came from just settled out old springs. So I think that's where the extra lift came from. I'll keep you updated on weather or not this settles in a little bit as the springs break in. Right now it hasn't even been hardly driven so it might come down a little bit. Anyway, thank you guys for watching. If you like my videos, please consider subscribing and let me know if you have any questions!

How To Install 1955-1959 Chevy Truck Windshield Weatherstrip

1955-1959 Chevy Truck

 Hello friends. Today we're going to show you how to install a WBL 407 GM windshield gasket. It fits a 55-59 GM full size truck. Check our website for complete make, model, year information. If you have chrome trim in your gasket WBL 407 GM will not workyou need a WCR 407 GM. The main difference in the installation is that you need to put the chrome in your gasket before you put the glass into your vehicle. In any glass installation we highly recommend you have a class professional install your glassthey're familier with the AGRSS standards and they have all the tools and products needed for proper installation. Today we're installing this gasket to show you the fit and finish of the Precision part. Greg's going to be helping me today. Greg what tools are gonna need for this job: Today we will be using the windshield stick, a phillips screwdriverhook toolutility knifenylon rope, the glass handlersand safety gloves.

Step by Step 1955-1959 Chevy Truck Windshield Weatherstrip Installation

The first thing we need to do is remove these wiper arms and a good thing to do here is take a picture and note the angle that their at so you can match them up when we put them back on. The way you need to do this is push down right here in your thumb and pull up right here their finger and rock back and forth and pull upthey are on splines We're gonna cut away this gasket now that helps you to save this piece of glass if you want to reuse itand Greg is going to get started on that. Greg why don't you explain what you're doing here. What we're going to do is take the utility knife, there's a contour line in the gasket we're going to cut along just below that linelength wise and we're gonna come back, there may be some sealant here that will hold the gasket in place. So what he's doing is cutting above the edge of the glass and underneath the gasket but below the pinch weld so you don't damage your paint. What we're doing is exposing the top edge of the glass.

 Now we're ready to remove the glass we have the glass exposed after cutting away the gasket. We have some glass handlers here to help us, otherwise you can come from the inside push it out In order to do the installwe're gonna have to remove this trim piece here that's held on by two screws one on each end. Now we have the screws removed we can take of this trim panel held on by series of metal clips Our weatherstrip installation tool works pretty wellyou need to push in and pry up. They're just a friction fit. The clip may well stay in the housing but can be removed and re-installed into the trim.

If the clip does come out of the molding there are cut outs on the molding to put these back in. Insert one in and slide it along and then place it in the molding where it needs to be. To be are using the old windshield or in a clean of any leftover residue from the silicone or whatever their previous owner did here.

We're installing the gasket now. One thing you need to know is the orientation, so you may want to take pictures or make mental notes on how was in the vehicle, but the big larger flap here goes towards the inside of the truck and then the joint through the corners you want them right about an inch from the corner itself where it flattens out. We'll start putting it on.

 Now we're going to get to this side it should land about the same area. If it does not, what you will have to do is remove this section and slide it over the bottom of the gasket.

Now what we're going to do is to stop water from entering the truck were going apply sealant on this finned area of the gasket.

You don't want to put too much as it will get all over the truck.

Next step is to put the rope into the groove that goes along the pinch weld and we have a quarter inch nylon rope here. Greg's going to put in. Now we'll start this in the center and the glass it doesn't necessarily matter then we'll take the hook tool on just kinda guide that rope into the gasket groove all the way around When you get to the end, what you'll want to do is cross one rope under the other and then when you start to install into the truck this will pull the whole gasket and rather than leaving a peace that doesn't come over the pinch weld. Now we're ready to install the glass into the truck bring to glass up then we'll let this rope excess rope flop over onto the dash.

We won't try to install it at this point I'm just going to get inside and take a look and center it from side to side now when we're installing the gasket on to the glass we illustrated that there's an extra lip we need to bring into the cab first. Use the hook tool to bring that around this is not the groove that the rope went in, this is a different interior lip on the gasket. Bring you side in Jeff. Now as far as centering goes you want to make sure that this gasket is against the pinch weld and then both sides that this gasket's inner lip is about the same area on both sides to make sure its center okay now that we have our windshield centered in the opening were going to start pulling the rope in installing the glass and as you see because I overlapped that ropepull the rest of the gasket in.

The best technique is to pull right up along the glass to bring that lip right over the pinchweld As you can see it's coming right over work this around the corner here I'm holding pressure with my other arm on the outside, slight pressure. Now I'm going to cross here doing the same thing progress across put pressure on the outside of the glass to bringing it in. What we'll do is bring the bottom in Jeff, if you want to put pressure on the outside, flat handed.

Now we'll continue up the sides now in this area you can see that there's the extra lip by my thumbnailmake sure that's it's on the inside of the body. If that's not, it's going to hold you up from the gasket coming inside. As you can see, the rope is pulling clearly all the way into the truck I need some pressure up here. As you can see here, that lip did not come inside, so that will hold us up from installation. So we'll have to go back and pull this gasket in another technique is actually grab the gasket and give it a little pull inside and set that lip inside as you can see here we have a difference in the gasket where it's tight up against the interior here and further away This is the area you need to focus on need to make sure that the second lip is inside the truck Pushing on the outsideapplying extra pressure. Another thing you can do is put your hook tool and help assist the gasket around the bodybringing it in nice and flat. That's how your finished product on the inside should look. Next step here is to put the trim piece back in. Set it in and line up the clips that you can slide laterally. Make sure you line up to the slots.

Alright, so as you can see the sealant has come out between the the gasket in the body, now what we're going to do is seal between the glass and the gasket. Just the nozzle of the applicator goes in between the groove and apply the urethane. After going all the way around the glass you'll have excessso what you'll do is take a razor bladeand clean it off. Next and last step here is to put the wiper blades back on. This is where it's good to remember what angle the blades where. They'll slide right over the spindles.